Trapper Tuesday Tips

A Wealth of TNR Info at Your Fingertips

Trapper Tuesday is a regular feature on Neighborhood Cats' Facebook page.  To view Tips "hot off the press" click the FB link above and "Like" our page!

The complete Trapper Tuesday collection is archived here.

February

 Once you start TNRing cats people from all over tend to find you, to ask for help. So if you live in NYC and someone from, say, Miami or Oshkosh emails wanting to know what to do about the cat in the alley on Main Street who keeps having kittens, where can you turn? Simple! The Humane Society of the United States maintains an online national directory of feral cat organizations. With about 1,500 state-by-state entries, and more added all the time chances are that far-away mom cat will soon get the help she needs! To view the directory please click here.

 If you don't want to go the DIY route for your cats' shelters, here's a great alternative. FeralVilla builds ready-to-assemble outdoor shelters that are snug, sturdy and affordable ($69.95 for one; $64.95 for two or more, plus s/h). The Original FeralVilla features an insulated "bedroom", size 20" w x 20" d. Large and small feeding stations and catnip-spiced bedding for the shelters is also available.

Janaury 2012

 A motion activated sprinkler is a useful tool when you need to keep cats out of certain areas, like the flower garden next door. The sprinklers harmlessly train the kitties to be better neighbors, avoiding places they're not welcome. Their big drawback? Until now the devices needed to be near a water source and hooked up to a garden hose. Not anymore! The new Havahart Spray Away Elite is cleverly designed with its own reservoir so no hose required. Place it anywhere you want to train cats to stay away. The unit is solar powered and can protect mpre than 1,000 sq. ft. of space. Click here for more info (and take a minute to view the funny demo video!)

 The cats are fixed, they're rested and raring to go so the next thing to do is return them to their colonies...right? If you said "yes" you're half right. The males can be released without worry but for the safety of the females, whose surgery was more invasive, it's a good idea to do one last thing before you open that trap door. Remove the newspaper from the trap so you can get a good look at kitty's shaved belly from below and carefully check her spay incision. A little redness is normal but if you see any oozing, bleeding, excessive redness or anything else that looks worrisome hold onto the cat and call the vet. Most of the time everything will be fine but the final belly-check takes just a minute and if you do spot a problem it can save her life. Time well spent!

 No one else can get near him but when you show up he'll come right over, rub against your leg, maybe even let you pick him up. So when he needs to go to the vet should you skip the trap and treat him to a comfortable ride in a carrier? That's a definite NO! Ferals grow to know and trust their caretakers but that shouldn't fool you into thinking you can treat him like a domesticated cat. Grabbing and attempting to force a feral into a closed space is extemely dangerous. Faster than you can react the cat can become terrified, twist and deliver a serious bite or scratch. Err on the side of safety and go through the trapping process with every feral. Don't worry. He'll forgive you and you'll still be his favorite person!

December 2011

  All winter shelters are not created equal. Some are better at blocking wind, rain and sleet but if yours isn't one of them, here's an easy way to offer added protection. If the roof of your shelter is even with its sides get a piece of plywood that's one foot longer than the shelter and of equal or slightly greater width. Position the extra 12" to overhang the entrance and secure the plywood with something heavy (a rock or a brick wil do). The longer roof will help shield the doorway from wind and snow and also creates a protected "dining area" that the cats can use in wet weather. For maximum benefit position two shelters with doorways facing one another and use one long plywood sheet to cover both roofs.

 Is it OK to spay ferals in winter? Lots of caretakers worry that shaved tummies mean kitties will be too cold but actually winter is a great time to TNR! As long as you've provided insulated shelter the cats should be fine and - big bonus - spaying before the arrival of warm weather means you're far less likely to trap females who are already pregnant or have helpless newborns stashed somewhere. To help cats stay warm post-surgery take special care to keep shelters well stocked with fresh straw for burrowing, and keep feeding stations close by to avoid prolonged exposure to cold.

 Are too-small trip plates making your life too hard? If the cats are reaching the bait by leaning or stepping OVER the trip plate, here's a remedy. Tape a piece of cardboard approximately 9 1/2" wide x 7" long to the middle of the trip plate, effectively extending it. The next time a kitty enters the trap she'll have to step ON the plate. (Not: to avoid this problem the  Neighborhood Cats trap by Tomahawk was designed with a larger trip plate; extenders not required.)

 You've planned and planned and finally it's time. Tomorrow you're doing a mass trapping. The next day the cats go to the vet to be spayed and neutered. What's wrong with this picture? If it rains - if someone unknowingly leaves out a bowl of food - if there's construction next door - if some of the cats decide to be cats and just won't cooperate - all your hard work can be wasted. Don't let that happen! By allowing a minimum of two days (three is better) to trap you can protect yourself from the unforeseeable and get your cats trapped, neutered and returned right on schedule.


 When the temperature dips below freezing how can you be sure your cats have access to fresh drinking water? You probably don't want to bundle up and run outside to change water bowls every hour or so but fortunately you don't have to - there are a number of clever products designed to prevent water from freezing. One of the best is the Solar Sipper, a durable outdoor drinker that can keep water ice-free to 20 degrees F. The Solar Sipper has no wires to chew and - added bonus - its insulated design will also keep water cooler in summer. Available from Happy Bird Corp. Click here for info and ordering.

November 2011

 When the snow flies it's tempting to stock feral shelters with blankets to keep kitties warm but actually blankets, towels and newspaper will do the reverse, draining away body heat and chilling the cats. For effective insulation choose materials that reflect body heat which in turn will warm the shelter's interior. Mylar blankets (the kind you see draped over runners at the end of a marathon) work well. So do Fleximat Purr Pads and - bonus - cats love 'em! Follow the link for Purr Pad ordering info. Find mylar blankets at www.amazon.com. (Note: the best way to install mylar blankets is to glue them, using carpenters glue, to the walls, floor and even ceiling of the shelter. Gluing them creates a smooth surface and avoids "crinkliness" that cats might object to. Remember to use entra care around corners and edges to avoid any loose ends.)

 Here's an easy way to help cats stay toasty, even in the coldest weather. Loosely fill a cotton pillow case with styrofoam peanuts, the kind used to pack fragile items during shipping. Tie the pillow case closed and put it inside the shelter. The pillow case will conform to the cat's body (sort of like a tiny Sleep Number bed!) and wrap her in warmth-capturing peanuts. (Note: as packing peanuts are now often made from starch, which dissolves in water, it's helpful to place the peanuts in a plastic bag before putting them in the pillow case.) (This idea comes from the book Maverick Cats: Encounters with Feral Cats by Ellen Perry Berkeley.)

  If you have a secure place to store food, keeping a supply at your  colony's site can save you a lot of schlepping. But bugs, mold, mice and other invaders are all waiting to dig in so it's important to choose the right container. The Vittles Vault Plus is tough enough to get this job done! Available in assorted sizes, the Vaults are made from food-grade high-impact plastic. 100% airtight to lock out moisture, plus ants and other crawlies. "No chew" corners make them impossible to bite open. Three 25-lb. Vaults fit in a large Rubbermaid bin, offering even more protection. Available at retailers like Petco. For more information go to www.gamma2.net.

  When you're TNRing a colony what should you do when you go to retrieve a trapped cat? Right! Immediately replace the trap with a fresh, baited one in exactly the same spot. That's because cats (for reasons known only to the cats) often seem to prefer a particular location. Same traps, same bait, all carefully chosen sites but when a trap is in one of these "hot spots" you'll find one kitty after another will choose that trap over the others. Don't worry about why...just be happy the cats are happy and keep trapping! 

 You've trapped a cat and - surprise! He's friendly. Too friendly to fix  and put back outdoors so you decide to find him a home. Before you go ahead with an adoption, take steps to ensure you can't be sued later if an owner turns up and demands their cat back. Contact your municipality to ask about local "lost and found" procedures. In many places like NYC you'll need to file a "found" report with animal control and wait a pre-determined amount of time (often 3 - 10 days). After that you can be deemed the legal owner and you'll be free to place Fluffy in the home of your choice. 

October 2011

 Do you have rats, raccoons or other furry freeloaders turning up at mealtime? Wildlife appears when food sits around waiting for the cats to come 'n get it. Solve the problem by feeding in a given "window" of time - for example, 8:00 - 8:15 am daily. After 15 minutes pick up the dishes. It may take a day or two but the cats will quickly learn to show up and chow down when they're expected. No extra food means no more uninvited guests! Persistent raccoons can also be deterred with a raccoon-proof feeder that takes advantage of their inability to jump. Click here for a guide to building your own.

 If you're caring for a feral for an extended time such as during recovery from injury, a Feral Cat Den can help. Used instead of a standard carrier in the Feral Cat Setup (see below) the Den is equipped with  a sliding porthole opening that can be tipped shut and locked into place by reaching in with a yardstick or something similar. It offers the cat a comforting enclosed hiding place while eliminating risk of injury to the handler. Available from Animal Care & Equipment Services (ACES), http://www.animal-care.com/ 

  If you need to foster a feral, whether to socialize or administer medical care for an extended time, the worst thing you can do is turn Kitty loose in the bathroom. Ferals will either hide (usually in a spot you never knew existed) or literally climb the walls trying to escape. You lose all control and face a difficult, even dangerous task when it's time to re-trap. A Feral Cat Setup is far safer for both of you. For setup instructions go to www.neighborhoodcats.org/HOW_TO_FOSTER_A_FERAL_CAT_SAFELY.



 You've picked up a litter of young kittens.  Now how do you catch Mama? Try this: put the babies in a carrier and place its front door against the back door of the box trap.  Drape a sheet over both leaving only the front of the trap uncovered.  Mom will only be able to see her kittens through the front of the trap and to get near them she'll have to enter.  When using this technique never leave little ones unattended and stop after one hour to avoid fatiguing the kittens.

September 2011

 Some cats are remarkably good at avoiding the trip plate. Here's a two-step way to fix that. First, line the trap bottom with newspaper and secure it with clothespins. Then insert a stick (dowels or garden stakes work well) across the long sides of the trap, about 3" off the ground and just in front of the trip plate. To reach the bait Kitty will be forced to high-step over the stick, right onto the hidden plate.

 Everyone's heard of "helicopter" parents who hover over their kids too much. Helicopter trappers hover over their cats too much. Once traps are in place it's tempting to stay close and keep an eye on the action but the cats will know you're watching. Lurking and staring will make them uneasy. Stay out of sight - go indoors and watch from there, or wait in your car or around a corner. Remember, less anxiety = calmer cats = more effective trapping!

 If a feral escapes indoors and there's a closet handy, here's a neat way to re-trap. Set a trap in the closet then shut the door leaving only enough room for the cat to go in. Make sure the closet is dark and the rest of the room as brightly-lit as possible. Block any other hiding places then shoo kitty towards the closet - her natural tendency will be to run from the bright open space to the dark enclosed one and, hopefully, into the trap.

 Now you see the trap...now you don't!  Sometimes a little camouflage is all it takes to catch a spooky cat.  Start by draping burlap over the sides and floor of your box trap.  Then pile on leaves, branches, anything that will add to the disguise.  Typically cats will be more willing to enter the space if they can see what they think is an exit so always leave the rear door uncovered when setting up a camouflage trap.

August 2011

 When you need a feeding station, think Rubbermaid! Their large storage bins accommodate small feeders and waterers, snap-on lids make cleaning a snap and (unlike other brands) they won't crack in frigid weather. Using a box cutter, cut out most of one of the long sides or cut a small door at each end (that way one bossy cat can't guard the door and keep others out!). Remember to cut doors a few inches up to prevent flooding.  

 Is that a black-and-white cat in the trap? Nope, it's a skunk. Don't panic - skunks aren't nearly as trigger-happy as people think. With a calm, quiet approach eveyone should go home smelling like roses. Remember, skunks rarely spray what they can't see so covering the trap will help. And, they give fair warning! If Pepe Le Pew stamps his feet, get back. For complete release info, click here.

 Cleaning traps and dividers with a 1:32 bleach solution can prevent the spread of disease.  Here's an easy way to do it.  Get a 30-gallon barbage can, fill with water and most of a gallon of bleach (must have minimum 5.25% sodium hypochlorite).  Using rubber gloves and eye protection, dip the trap in the can, turn it over, dip the other end and air dry.  For more info click here.

 When it's time to bait the trap do you always reach for tuna or sardines?  STOP!  No bait works 100% of the time so it's important to experiment.  Canned mackerel, for example, is an excellent, oft-overlooked choice.  It's cheap, aromatic and has lots of juice so you can dribble a zigzag trail into the trap. Comes in 12-oz cans so bring a can opener + container for leftovers.  For cats who don't like fish try KFC; ferals agree, those 11 herbs and spices really are hard to resist!


July 2011

 Having a problem with fleas?  Diatomaceous earth, a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of diatom algae is an effective, all natural insecticide that can be dusted directly onto cats or sprinkled in their shelters, hiding places, etc.  Note there are several varietes and it's essential to use ONLY food grade DE around animals.  For more info go to www.dirtworks.net.


 Here's a simple idea that can save you lots of extra steps. When you're setting multiple traps, place folded sheets under the trap handles. Later, when a   cat needs to be covered in a hurry you've got the sheet at your fingertips. No more rummaging through your supplies or running to the parking lot wondering where the covers ended up!






  Soggy newspaper...slushy food...soaked paws. Some cats being cared for in traps pre- and post-surgery seem determined to knock over their water and when they do things inside get pretty messy. The solution: Coop Cups! Designed for birds, Coop Cups are small stainless bowls with hangers that mount easily inside traps without crowding Kitty. Available at www.westcoastpetsupply.com.


  Cats who like catnip often LOVE catnip spray - it's highly concentrated and very pungent. Plus it's got staying power since it can't blow away the way dried flakes do. Try spritzing a small amount directly onto the trip plate to draw kitty into the trap and remember to use a quality spray like Kong Naturals to make sure the scent is irresistible!


  To catch kittens who are too small to set off the trip plate rest the     tip of the trigger on the crossbar, not the elbow (see photo). The trap will go off much more readily. Note that other kittens can be hit by the closing door so do this ONLY when the trap can't be directly watched (like in a back alley) and manual operation of the door with the Bottle Trick (see June 2011)      isn't possible. 


June 2011

  If you're trapping kittens and are working in a location where you won't be able to see the trap (like a back alley) a sheet of plain cardboard  can save the day. Cut a kitten-sized door in the cardboard, attach to the trap with 4 twist ties in front of the trip plate and voila!...big cats out, babies in!



 If you're trapping 8 cats you need 8 traps...right? Not quite. When you're TNRing a colony and you're down to the last few ferals it'll be a lot easier to catch them if traps outnumber cats. A few extra traps can prevent having to wait (...and wait...) for Kitty to take the bait from a spot that, for whatever reason, she just won't go near.

 Cats are rarely on the prowl when the mercury climbs so summertime trapping works best if you train ferals to come for meals early in the morning or after sunset.  Cooler temps = more cats = better TNR.
                                                                                  
 If you're after a specific cat or small kittens who might be hurt by a
closing trapdoor try the Bottle Trick: prop the door open with a full 1-liter  water bottle with a long string tied on, wait a good distance away and when the time is right...pull! Remember to use extra bait since cats may come    and go before you get the one(s) you want, and practice before you try         this live!



May 2011

 If a cat enters a trap but doesn't spring it DON'T rush noisily over to get him out before he's done eating; he'll be too afraid to go in again. Instead, walk slowly and quietly towards Kitty, giving him plenty of time to exit. Fix the problem (extend trip plate, cover it with newspaper, etc.), refresh the bait and calmly leave. The curious-but-not-frightened cat will usually return soon to dine.
                                                                                  
 A good way to catch a wily cat is to train her to go into the trap for meals. (see last week's TT Tip for the how-to). But if your traps go AWOL you can't catch anyone! So when working in a public space, like a park, remember to 1) place trap in an inconspicuous spot 2) chain to something solid like a bike rack or fence and 3) remove the rear door and take it with you. Protect your traps and keep the "T" in TNR!
                                                                               
 Convince the kitties the traps aren't traps...they're dining rooms, by securing doors in an open position and placing meals inside for a week before you need to catch them. When mealtime comes they'll walk right in! Do this only in secure areas (like a backyard). Check back next week for how to feed in traps in open-access spaces.
                                                                              
 Once in awhile a cat comes along who doesn't like stepping on metal. Lining traps with newspaper can help but remember to secure the paper with clothespins...otherwise, every breeze will create enough rustling and flapping to scare all the cats away!
                                                                            
 Cats are naturally suspicious of objects standing alone in open
areas. So place your traps against walls, fences, etc. - KItty will think the    trap is part of the larger structure and will be more willing to check out the tempting bait inside.



April 2011

 Many people leave dividers at home but you should ALWAYS have one with you while trapping. If you catch two cats in one trap you can separate them, or limit the space a frantic cat has in the trap. Dividers need to be strong and Neighborhood Cats recommends only two: the TNR Cat Trap Divider by Tomahawk (for info and ordering click here) and the Tru-Catch Model TD-2.
                                                                         
 If ants are swarming over your cats' food here's a quick fix. Create a moat by setting the food bowl into a larger bowl of water. It'll stop ants in their tracks! For a ready-made solution go to www.antproofbowl.com. 
                                                                             
 Hansel and Gretel were on to something! Sprinkle a tasty trail and cats will often eat their way right into the trap (we recommend crumbled Pounce). Start the trail about 10 feet away, continue it right into the trap and remember to put a generous amount of crumbs on or past the trip plate.
                                                                             
 If you're having trouble trapping a wily cat try a laser pointer. From a distance get Kitty focused on the little red dot. Once she's intrigued she may chase it right into the trap!

March 2011

 April showers bring more than May flowers. Leaky shelters with damp bedding can harbor fleas so now is the perfect time for an Outdoor Kitty Spring Cleaning. Check to make sure your cats' shelters are watertight, remove old winter bedding and if the cats enjoy snuggling in something soft, replace with a fresh supply of straw. After a long, hard winter everyone deserves a happy springtime!