The drop trap described here was designed by Laura Burns of Boston and requires basic woodworking skills and tools to make.  Tips and techniques for using a drop trap are available by request from Laura at: HubCatsBoston@aol.com.  An alternative drop trap design from Alley Cat Allies (constructed of PVC pipe and athletic netting) can be seen at http://www.alleycat.org/resources.html

Drop TrapHow it works:  A wooden frame covered by netting or mesh is propped up on one side, and food is placed in the center-back.  The trapper stands at a distance, and when ready, pulls on the string attached to the prop-stick, which allows the trap to drop, capturing the cats inside.  Each cat is then securely transferred to a box trap, through matching guillotine-style doors, for transport to the vet.

Design and construction:  Dimensions are 3'W x 3'D x 14"H.  The prop stick is 18" long.  These dimensions work well.  A smaller trap might work with a shorter prop stick (cats back up fast when trap starts to drop, so trap must be down by the time they reach the front of it).

The frame is constructed of "strapping" for lightweight and rounded edges.  There's a hinged flap (carpeted for traction) attached to the back on which is placed a weight (a bucket of bricks) - this allows the trap itself to be light enough not to crush a cat or kitten, to be carried easily, and also stabilizes and anchors the trap.  The door is constructed of ¼" sanded underlayment plywood, 7"W x 18"H, and the slides for it are straight-grained fir tongue-and-groove flooring, ripped in half. 

The cover:  the green plastic netting pictured above is available at Home Depot, in the Outside Garden department.  It's called "landscape fencing", and the holes are about 1" square.  It is not as rugged as "safety fencing" (find some with 1" holes) or "debris netting" (a strong knitted plastic mesh, available at builder's supply places), but it is a soft surface and creates a visible barrier.  Wire fencing is not visible enough to a panicked cat, and hardware cloth mesh is too rough a surface for them to hurl themselves into.  The netting cover is lashed to the frame with rope, or cable ties.
Transport:  The drop trap is fairly large and bulky.  Several people in the Boston area have constructed versions of this trap that come apart for transport, or, you can put the drop trap on roof racks. If you're planning to put the trap in your wagon or minivan, remember you'll also need room in the car for box traps.

Directions for use:
 You will need:
The drop trap and a cover for it
The stick-and-string, and an anchor weight (eg. bucket with bricks).
Bait food and a large dish (can opener, fork, etc)
One or more wire box traps or transfer cages with guillotine doors in addition to the trap door.

WARNING:  The drop trap isn't foolproof.  Cats can escape at various points in the process, but careful technique can avoid most disasters.  Practice this procedure several times, and don't use the drop trap for the first time on a cat you've been trying to get for 3 years.  You'll make mistakes at first, you'll lose a few, and you don't want it to be THAT one.  Once you think you've got the hang of it, you might trap a few eartipped cats for practice (you can update their rabies vaccines, or just thank them and release them). 

 

 

 

 

Quickie Directions
 (For more in-depth instruction, open the "Detailed Instructions" download located in the lefthand margin.)

  1. Set up in a good location (where you can see, and the ground is level), door facing your position (the spot where you will be watching from), if possible.
  2. Place a plentiful amount of food in the center-back of the trap.
  3. Leave some wire box traps and covers where you can reach them from the drop trap.
  4. Stand back a good distance (depends on the cats) with an unfolded blanket, holding the cord.  Ask observers to stay back unless you call them.
  5. When cat or cats **have settled down** to eat at back of trap, give the cord a good yank
  6. Run or walk up to the trap and COVER COMPLETELY.  This is important if they're very wild! If you're alone, hold the trap down firmly and wait for them to settle before you attempt the transfer. 
  7. You want to get the cat(s) out as quickly and quietly as possible, and reset the trap.
  8. Line up the box trap to receive cat, cover it with a towel.  DON'T cover the far end of the trap - you want it to look like an exit. CAREFULLY arrange towel and blanket to cover gaps between the two traps, place your foot on the box trap to keep it from shifting -- and open both doors. Stand very still.
  9. If he doesn't move into the box trap in 15 seconds, twitch the cover or call a helper, to motivate the cat to enter the box trap.  Keep the cover between you and the cat.
  10. Close BOTH doors when cat has entered box trap.  If there are other cats remaining in the drop trap, you'll transfer them one at a time, generally.
  11. Cover and remove cat to some distance if he's the only one.  If there are others, just put him aside while you transfer the others.  Then reset the trap and get them away.
  12. Inspect the cat in the box trap at your leisure to be sure he/she is not eartipped or nursing.

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