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Fostering a feral cat safely
means not letting him or her go in your bathroom and hoping somehow you'll
get him in a carrier later. Or releasing him into your bedroom then trying
to figure out how you'll ever get him out from under your bed. Remember
that
 your environment is totally unfamiliar to a feral cat and you are
perceived as a threat, especially in this strange new territory. You have
to give the cat a space where he feels safe and where he can either learn
about his new surroundings, if he's interested in doing so, or quietly
retreat. That's what the Feral Cat Setup allows you to do. In the rare cases
where someone has a good reason for trying to adopt a feral cat, the
chances of a successful transition to indoor life are greatly increased by
use of the Setup for at least two or three weeks until the cat is visually
comfortable, at which time the cage door can be left open for the cat to
come and go as he pleases.
1.
Materials
needed:
- Cage, at least 36" x 24" x 20"
- Small cat carrier (the smallest)
- Small litter pan (the smallest - can use aluminum baking pan)
- Yardstick
- Arm extender
- Cotton sheet
- Newspaper
- Food and water dishes
- Twist tie
- Small towel
2. The
setup (without the cat):
Line the bottom of the cage with newspaper. Place the carrier in one back
corner of the cage and then put the litter pan next to it in the other
back corner. Make sure the carrier door, when it's open, rests against the
side of the cage and doesn't swing open into the middle. Put food dish and
water dish inside.
3.
Putting
the cat inside:
a) Have the vet deliver the cat to you inside the small carrier, or
transfer the cat into the carrier from a trap with a rear door. Have the
towel already in the carrier.
b) Place the carrier (containing the cat) inside the cage, in the back
corner.
c) Close and lock the cage door.
d) Slide the yardstick through the bars of the cage so that it securely
bars the carrier door from opening.
e) Open the cage door, but always keep the door between your body and the
interior of the cage. This way you can shut it quickly if you need to.
f) Reach in and unlock the carrier door.
g) Close the cage door.
h) Remove the yardstick, then use it to move the carrier door against the
side of the cage.
i) Secure the carrier door open by using the twist tie to tie it to the
side of the cage.
j) Cover the cage with the cotton sheet to calm the cat.
4.
Feeding
and cleaning:
The cat's natural tendency will be to run into the carrier
whenever you approach. If he gets bold, you might have to try removing the
cotton cover from the cage, making a loud sound or gently poking him with
the yardstick. Once he's in the carrier, you untie the carrier door from
the side of the cage, use the yardstick to close the carrier door and then
bar the carrier door shut with the yardstick. You can then open the cage
door and do what you have to. Also, you can lock the carrier door and
remove the carrier and cat while you clean.
5.
Really
uncooperative cat:
If the cat just won't go in the carrier, he's gotten pretty comfortable
and is unlikely to try to bolt out of the cage. In this case, use the arm
extender to reach in and pull out the litter pan, food dish, etc. BUT
REMEMBER: keep the cage door in front of you at all times so you can close
it quickly, and keep an eye on him in case he does try to bolt.
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