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Traps This is our first choice as the best combination of trap and recovery cage. The trap is the right size, lightweight, has an easy-to-use trapping mechanism and is affordable. It has two design defects, however, that you need to be aware of when using them:
The Tru-catch Trap Isolator
(Model TD-2 - see description below) can be used with this trap. This trap comes in a close second. It's extremely well made and durable (much more than the Safeguard traps). It has a nice big trip plate and an easy to use rear door (again in contrast to the Safeguard). Even though it's also 36 inches long, the design of the trap door allows for more interior space than the Safeguard and so it makes a better holding cage. Problems include its weight (it's heavy)! And it can be tricky to set the trigger mechanism properly. The first time we used it, we set the trigger for too much weight and the cat did not set it off. This is easily solved, but not until you've figured it out (you have to rest the trigger bar on the door towards the bottom of the trigger bar on the side). Also the trap door sticks out quite far when the trap is set, creating greater potential for a cat to knock the door closed before entering. The Tru-catch Trap Isolator (Model TD-2 - see description below) was made to be used with this trap. Tomahawk
Flush Mount Raccoon Transfer Trap (Model 608.2) Measuring 36" L x 10" W x 12" H, this trap is similar in appearance to the Safeguard Model SG-36D, but is made of stronger materials and is more durable, hence the greater cost. Like the SG-36D, the trap is set by moving a trigger hook underneath a crossbar and is easy to use. It's a good, reliable trap that will last. Like the SG-36D, the Tomahawk also suffers from too small of a trip plate. This too, is solved by taping a piece of cardboard measuring the width of the trap and seven inches long to the middle of the trip plate (see photo above). The locking mechanism on the rear door is a safety snap which is simple and avoids the mistakes made with the hooks on the SG-36D. The Tru-catch trap divider (Model TD-2), listed below, can also be used with this trap. Trap Dividers When using the Safeguard or Tru-Catch traps described above as holding cages, you'll need trap dividers for cleaning and feeding - the dividers keep the cat isolated on one end while you clean the other (see "Caring for Cats Held in Traps" on the Info page). The Tru-catch Model TD-2 dividier (also called an isolater) works well with both the traps recommended above. Please note: The manufacturer
recently changed the model number of the Tru-catch isolater recommended
here. It is now Model TD-2. However, on their website, it was still listed
at time of press as Model TD-1. Just make sure, whether you order
on-line or over the phone, that you get the trap isolater meant for the
Model 36D Tru-Catch trap. Cages, Carriers &
Miscellaneous Equipment JEFFERS has the best prices that we know of on cages and other equipment. We don't have a particular brand to recommend for cages, but do suggest when you buy cages or playpens, don't spend the extra money on ones with thick steel bars. The cheaper thin bars work perfectly fine with cats. We do recommend you pay a little more and buy the easy-to-assemble foldup models and not the put-it-together yourself kinds. The latter are prone to resulting in mistakes when you put them together, thereby allowing your feral friend a way out (you'd be surprised at how small a space they can manage to squeeze through). |
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First - the trip plate is too
small. We've often seen cats simply stepping or leaning over it to eat
(not a happy sight on a cold night). The way around this problem is to
extend the trip plate with a piece of cardboard. The cardboard should be
the width of the trap and approximately 7 inches long. Lay one end of
the cardboard over the front half of the trip plate and tape it on. Now
when the cat steps on the cardboard, it sets off the trip plate. (But
test it to make sure you taped the cardboard on far enough up the trip
plate).
Second - the locking mechanism on
the rear door is easy to do incorrectly. The key thing you must keep doublechecking is that you've latched the hooks on the top of the door
UNDER the cross-bars of the trap. If you don't, the rear door is easily
pushed open from below. 